SRINAGAR: Nita Ambani’s appearance at the inauguration of the Shiv Mandir at Gir in Saurashtra last week has set off a fresh wave of attention towards Kashmir’s exquisite craft traditions, after she chose to wear an intricately crafted shaded Jamevaar sari by designer Tarun Tahiliani, The Indian Express reported.
The Reliance Industries Chairperson, renowned for her deep appreciation of Indian craftsmanship, used the occasion to showcase the artistry of Kashmiri weavers and embroiderers.
Her sari, embellished with the finest Khashida embroidery in pearl, ochre, and deep red tones, stood out as a deliberate acknowledgement of Kashmir’s centuries-old textile heritage. Taking to Instagram, Tahiliani described the ensemble in detail, noting that the choli was “a contemporary reinterpretation of classic couture”, featuring an optical-illusion border and a striking Jamevaar back. The look, he added, was paired with rare vintage Golconda diamonds from Ambani’s personal collection, adding a layer of historical resonance to the ensemble.
Beyond fashion, the choice of attire has refocused attention on the fragile ecosystem of Kashmiri handicrafts. While Pashmina and Kani textiles remain the best-known exports from Kashmir, thousands of artisans continue to depend on kashidakari and Jamevaar weaving for a substantial portion of household income. Jamevaar, a luxurious blend of cotton and Pashmina wool, has historically been prized for its dense patterns and regal finish.
Kashida, the general term for Kashmiri embroidery, encompasses a diverse range of techniques, all characterised by thick, coloured threads, beads, detailed motifs, and a versatile application across silk, cotton, wool, garments, and décor. Among its most celebrated forms is Sozni embroidery, admired for its finesse and reversibility, where patterns often appear on both sides of the fabric in subtly different shades. Sozni relies on fly, stem, and darning stitches to create its signature intricacy.
Nita Ambani’s decision to bring this heritage to a national stage has offered a moment of visibility to artisans whose work rarely receives such mainstream attention. At a time when Kashmir’s handmade economy continues to grapple with competition from machine-made imitations, this spotlight, as The Indian Express observed, underscores both the cultural significance and the economic fragility of the Valley’s craft traditions.
