SRINAGAR: The age-old tradition of preserving vegetables by drying them for the harsh winter months in Kashmir is slowly fading into history. The practice, known as Hokh Syun, was once a crucial method for surviving the region’s severe winters when access to fresh produce was limited. However, with improved transportation networks and milder winters due to global warming, the reliance on dried vegetables has drastically diminished.
Fatima Jan, 70, a resident of Srinagar’s Downtown, recalls the days when drying vegetables was an essential household task. “We used to sun-dry vegetables between April and October, storing them for the winter when supplies were scarce,” she said. In the past, heavy snowfall could isolate Kashmir for weeks, blocking the Srinagar-Jammu National Highway and cutting off the valley from the rest of the world. During these months, the dried vegetables became a lifeline, ensuring that families had access to food when fresh produce was unavailable.
For centuries, Hokh Syun was a staple in Kashmiri homes. The process was time-consuming and labour-intensive, involving the drying of vegetables like tomatoes, gourd, spinach, turnips, lotus stem, and brinjal. The vegetables were sliced, completely dried to remove all moisture, and then threaded into garlands or spread in the sun for drying. These were then stored for winter consumption, often hanging on walls or ceilings. In earlier times, these preserved vegetables were even more expensive than fresh produce due to the effort involved in their preparation.
However, the changing landscape of Kashmir’s food supply has seen this tradition diminish. Improved road and air connectivity now ensure that fresh vegetables are available throughout the year, even during the winter months, reducing the necessity for dried vegetables. Farooq Ahmad, a vegetable seller from Baramulla, explained, “The Srinagar-Jammu National Highway no longer remains closed for long periods, and fresh produce is transported easily even in winter. Many farmers also grow vegetables in greenhouses, ensuring year-round availability.”
Additionally, the region’s changing climate has played a significant role in the decline of Hokh Syun. Kashmir’s winters are no longer as severe as they once were, with snowfall becoming less frequent and less intense. This has further diminished the need for preserving vegetables for long periods.
The convenience of fresh vegetables has made Hokh Syun less appealing, with many households now viewing the labour-intensive process of drying vegetables as outdated. While the tradition is still maintained in some remote parts of North and South Kashmir, it is no longer a common practice in urban areas.
As Kashmir’s agricultural landscape evolves, the fading of this traditional practice highlights the broader changes taking place in the region’s food culture, driven by modern transportation, greenhouse farming, and the impact of climate change. (With KINS inputs)
