By Farhana Imtiyaz
SRINAGAR: For over eight decades, a family in Srinagar’s Aali Kadal has been serving a delicacy that has become a Ramadan staple in Kashmir. Their signature phirni, a fragrant, slow-cooked milk pudding, draws hundreds of customers each evening as they prepare to break their fast. At the heart of this enduring tradition is Nazir Ahmad Sheikh, who, alongside his two sons, Showkat and Aabid, has upheld the family’s reputation for quality and authenticity.
“We have been making phirni for 61 years, and people come from all over Kashmir to buy it from us,” Nazir said, his voice filled with quiet pride.
The craft has been passed down through generations, shaping the family’s identity and livelihood. Nazir himself learnt the trade from his elder brother 45 years ago and has since built a devoted customer base. The secret to their success, he insists, lies in purity. “We use only pure cow’s milk to make phirni. Whether a customer buys a small serving or a large one, they get the same quality,” he said.
With limited job opportunities in Kashmir, Nazir has brought his sons into the business, ensuring both stability and continuity. “This tradition has sustained our family for generations, and I want it to continue,” he said.
A Seasonal Craft
While phirni is their Ramadan speciality, the family shifts to selling kulfi in the summer. Like their phirni, the kulfi is crafted using traditional methods and fresh ingredients, drawing in loyal customers. “We put the same love and care into our kulfi,” Nazir said, emphasising their commitment to authenticity.
The family’s dedication has not gone unnoticed. Their time-honoured techniques have attracted visitors beyond Kashmir, including Indian vloggers keen to document their process. “It is an honour to share our tradition with the world,” Nazir said. “We hope our phirni becomes a symbol of Kashmir’s rich culinary heritage.”
Family’s Devotion
Showkat, Nazir’s son, has inherited his father’s skill and passion. “I have learnt the art of phirni-making from my father. It is not an easy craft, but under his guidance, I have mastered it,” he said.
For him, the work is more than a livelihood—it is a source of honour. “As long as the work is halal, there is no superior or inferior profession. Earning a halal livelihood in this materialistic world is the greatest act of worship,” he added.
Regular customers echo the sentiment that Nazir’s phirni is unmatched. Umar Qadir, a resident of Hawal, has been buying it for two decades. “I have not tasted phirni like this anywhere else,” he said. Another customer from Dalgate described it as “a mix of chocolate and ice cream, yet uniquely pure.” For many, Nazir’s phirni is a Ramadan ritual, anticipated eagerly each evening.
A Tradition in Changing Times
The price of phirni has changed over the years, reflecting inflation and improvements in packaging. “It started at five rupees, then increased to ten, then thirty, and later fifty. Now it is sixty rupees,” Nazir explained. “Earlier, we served phirni on plates. Later, we moved to small boxes, and now we use paper packaging. The price has changed, but our quality remains the same.”
Through decades of economic shifts and evolving consumer habits, Nazir and his family have remained steadfast in their commitment to excellence. Their phirni has become more than just a dessert—it is a piece of Kashmir’s heritage, a reminder of the power of tradition, and a testament to the perseverance of those who keep it alive.
