by Mohammad Zubair Ud Din

When students are able to physically visit a place with historical value, they can develop a deeper understanding and appreciation for the events that have shaped our past.

A relic from the Past: The Mughal Aliabad Sarai on the Mughal Road

Subject tours in history are an important part of enhancing students’ understanding, appreciation, and engagement with historical events, places, and cultures. By providing experiential learning opportunities where students are able to physically visit a place with historical value, they can develop a deeper understanding and appreciation for the events that have shaped our past.

These tours provide a personal connection to the past, allowing students to connect in meaningful ways to the people who experienced it first-hand. It was this passion, coupled with the fact that the 6th-semester students from the 2020 batch had never had the chance to embark on a subject tour due to unforeseen circumstances, that led to the submission of their application to the office of the Principal, Gandhi Memorial College, Srinagar.

The Principal, Prof (Dr) G M Lone, was gracious enough to grant the permission. The stage was now set for an adventure that would etch lasting memories. Dr Bashir, Dr Sameer, Miss Rikza, Miss Aqsa, and Mohammad Ashraf were chosen by the Principal to accompany and support me in my role as the Head of the History Department for this subject tour.

The Start

The day we had all been eagerly anticipating finally dawned on September 16, 2023. At the crack of dawn, a small but enthusiastic group of students and staff members, selected for this subject tour, gathered at the college campus. Brimming with excitement, everyone was eager to board the bus that would carry them on a remarkable voyage.

For most, Mughal Road was an uncharted territory, an untouched gem waiting to be explored.

Enthusiasm filled the air as the journey officially began at 7:30 am. Navigating the chaotic streets of Srinagar, the bus soon found its way onto the express highway. We took the turn at Kakapora crossing leading us on a different route, straight to Shopian. At Ratnipora, Ashraf and his spirited eight-year-old son joined us, adding a delightful surprise to our adventure. As we ventured further towards our destination, Bollywood melodies filled the bus, students crafting their unique renditions of familiar songs. There were no constraints; they freely added and subtracted lines, creating an ambience of joy and camaraderie.

The Mughal Road

Upon turning right at Shopian, we embarked on the final stretch of our journey, the historic Mughal Road. With dense forests and mountains flanking both sides of the road, it was impossible not to marvel at the aesthetic taste of the Mughal royalty. This historic road, once trodden by Mughal emperors seeking to enter Kashmir, held a special allure. The fondness that Mughal rulers, from Akbar to Aurangzeb, held for Kashmir was legendary, with Jahangir famously likening it to paradise on earth.

A group of history students from the Gandhi College in a group photograph near Mughal Sarai on Mughal Road in September 2023.

Our first stop was Heerpora, where medicines were procured to alleviate motion sickness among some students. Everyone stocked up on water bottles and essentials before resuming the journey. The enchanting surroundings continued to captivate us, nature in its purest form unfolding before our eyes.

The scarcity of traffic on this route eased our driver’s nerves as he skillfully navigated the winding curves of this breathtaking road.

Mughal Sarai

After passing Dubjan, we proceeded towards Aliabad Sarai, nestled in a surreal and awe-inspiring landscape. To reach Aliabad Sarai (Mughal Sarai), we faced a daunting challenge: a steep descent of approximately 600 metres. It was perhaps the most treacherous downhill trek I had ever undertaken.

Our students, unaccustomed to such demanding downhill terrain, became anxious. In response, the faculty joined them to calm the students’ nerves. Our determination to witness the architectural marvel of the Aliabad Sarai, a vital component of our subject tour, remained unwavering as missing out on this sarai in person would have contradicted the essence of our educational tour. Forming a human chain, we provided steadfast support, aiding each student and one another in reaching the coveted spot where the Sarai revealed its aesthetic grandeur at around 11 am. It was here that we had a firsthand encounter with this architectural relic of the

Mughal era. What sets this Sarai apart is the presence of a stream flowing beneath it, while majestic mountains stand as natural sentinels of this Mughal Sarai. We were captivated by the beauty of this natural setting. I provided the students with a concise description of the architectural, cultural, economic, and military importance of the Mughal Sarais. Each of us immortalised the moment with photographs, cherishing memories in both our minds and hearts.

Eventually, it was time to return to the bus. The uphill trek, however, proved challenging for some students, and one, Ulfat, experienced severe complications. Miss Rikza stepped up admirably, offering comfort and guiding her through yogic breathing exercises. When it became clear that Ulfat could not make it back on her own, some faculty members came to her rescue, ensuring her safe return to the bus.

Pir Ke Gali

Our journey now resumed to Pir ke Gali, the final boundary of the Kashmir Valley, from where Poonch begins. As we disembarked with our lunch bags at about 12:45 pm, we were greeted by swirling clouds, embracing us in a mystical shroud. Visibility was restricted to just a few meters and the bone-chilling cold pierced through the air.

With rain suddenly descending, we made our way to pay respects at a shrine, embracing the blessing from the skies. The rain intensified, and a sense of winter enveloped us. Not a drop had fallen since mid-July, making this downpour a cherished gift. We reluctantly abandoned plans to have lunch at Dubjan because of a downpour, instead seeking refuge in a kind-hearted hotel owner’s establishment at Heerpora.

Back Home

As we commenced our journey back, a spontaneous decision, driven by the students; insistence, led us to pause and immerse ourselves in nature’s beauty a bit further down the road in Heerpora. The scenery was embellished with abundant greenery and towering conifers, a captivating sight that tempted us to prolong our stay. At around 4 pm, we departed from this location and resumed our journey back to the college, each student and staff member carrying a bag filled with unforgettable memories.

(The author teaches history at the Gandhi Memorial College, Srinagar. Ideas are personal.)

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