As winter sets in, Kashmir witnesses a complete transformation in its attire and food. Hurmat Altaf writes about the winter delicacies and culinary wonders that have survived for generations
Kashmir, the paradise of the East, has a rich cultural heritage and culinary traditions. The region is celebrated globally for its exquisite and scenic beauty, offering solace to those fortunate enough to experience it.
With the changing seasons, Kashmir transforms. It is as good in the attire as it is in food. After fall, winter arrives, bringing with it a harsh forty-day period known as Chillai Kalan, starting from December 21 to January 31 each year. Chillai Kalan, a Persian term meaning “major cold”, paints the valley in the hues of winter.
As Chillai Kalan sets in, Kashmir embarks on a unique culinary journey, featuring specific savoury delights like anchaar, harissa, makai soutt, and more. Against the backdrop of snow-covered landscapes, Kashmir’s culinary heritage flourishes, inviting both locals and non-natives to savour flavours resonating with the essence of this divine land. The intricate interplay of seasons not only enchants the eyes with breathtaking scenery but also entices the palate with the distinct symphony of Kashmiri cuisine.
The Harissa
Harissa, a culinary treasure in Kashmir, symbolises the essence of winter dining in the region. Crafted through meticulous slow-cooking, this flavourful delicacy reflects the resilience of the Kashmiri community in navigating harsh winters. Whether prepared with mutton or chicken, the infusion of aromatic spices ensures each bite is rich and hearty.
Beyond its allure, Harissa holds cultural significance, providing warmth during chilly weather and is commonly enjoyed during communal gatherings, family events, and winter celebrations. With every taste, it embraces the traditions defining Kashmir’s culinary heritage, becoming an integral and treasured part of local culture.
Another pivotal dish during this season is anchaar, which serves as a flavourful companion to food. Makai soutt, enjoyed with nun chai, not only provides warmth but also intensifies its flavour, offering a corn-based delight with every sip.
Dried Vegetables
The prominent winter feast in Kashmir is the age-old practice of houksuin – the art of sun-drying vegetables. This centuries-old tradition is a testament to Kashmiri’s resourcefulness, ensuring a bounty of flavours even in the harshest winters. The historical roots of hokksuin trace back to a time when the harsh winters of Kashmir imposed geographical isolation, hindering the movement of people and resources. Faced with the challenge of sustaining themselves during these winter months, the residents of Kashmir ingeniously turned to the practice of drying vegetables in the abundant months of August and September.
This meticulous process served as a strategic preparation, allowing the preservation of essential sustenance until the rigours of the winter months. The revival of these preserved vegetables during winter not only showcases the resourcefulness of the Kashmiri people but also bestows upon them the joy of savouring a taste that echoes the warmth of summer during the chilling cold. These included dried tomatoes (ruvaganhachi), brinjal (waganhachi), bottle gourd (alle hachi), dried turnips (gogjar), and not only vegetables but also different varieties of dried fish (hokhgaad).
This art of preserving extends beyond vegetables, encompassing a diverse array of flavours that contribute to Kashmir’s culinary mosaic. Dried tomatoes (ruvaganhachi) lend a tangy burst to dishes, while dried brinjal (waganhachi) brings a rich and smoky undertone. Dried calabash (alle hachi) retains its subtle sweetness even in its dried form, offering a unique touch to winter recipes. Dried turnips (gogjar) add a robust earthiness, infusing dishes with their distinctive taste. Not confined to the vegetable realm, different varieties of dried fish (hokhgaad) bring a briny depth to the preserved pantry, contributing to the intricate layering of flavours in Kashmiri cuisine.
This diverse medley of preserved ingredients not only sustains households during the winter but also showcases the culinary ingenuity that has defined Kashmir’s kitchens for generations.
A Great Survival
The age-old practices, therefore, never become obsolete but pass from one generation to another. Despite the convenience of modern life, where everything is available, unlike the recent past, the fact that we still uphold these traditions speaks to an unbreakable connection to our roots. These rituals are not just routines; they are a living part of who we are, offering a sense of identity and belonging.
As we continue these timeless customs, we not only honour our cultural heritage but also stay connected to the stories and values that define us. In essence, our roots are not relics of the past but threads weaving a vibrant tapestry that shapes our present and future.
(The author studies English at the University of Kashmir.)
