by Zeeshan Mushtaq
The route, which I named Tuih Chiv Angrez, WI3 | 60m a Kashmiri phrase translating to ‘Are you a Foreigner?’ holds deep personal significance.
Kashmir, often celebrated as a haven for adventurers, is synonymous with its renowned trekking routes and world-class skiing opportunities. However, despite its rugged terrain and natural ice formations, the region lags in the realm of climbing, particularly ice and rock climbing. This disparity may stem from a lack of infrastructure, limited accessibility to specialised equipment, and a prevailing perception that Kashmir’s terrain is better suited for traditional trekking and winter sports. Yet, with a growing global interest in adventure tourism and a focus on sustainability, the potential to promote climbing in this breathtaking valley remains immense, waiting to be harnessed.
The introduction of ice climbing to Kashmir’s adventure sports scene can be traced back to the winter of 2015 when it was started by Junaid Dar, Parvaiz and Chefkat. Recognising the need to diversify tourism offerings, the Jammu and Kashmir Tourism Department, in collaboration with the Jammu and Kashmir Mountaineering and Hiking Club, organised a three-day event to promote this niche sport in 2016. Although the initiative persisted until 2018, the enthusiasm it generated was fleeting. Challenges such as high costs of specialised gear and a lack of local expertise stymied the sport’s growth. Despite these obstacles, the seeds of possibility were sown, awaiting the dedication of passionate individuals to nurture them into something enduring.
Years of determination and relentless effort culminated in the historic opening of Kashmir’s first ice-climbing route. My journey as an ice climber began modestly, marked by countless challenges, including limited access to crucial equipment like ice screws and the inherent difficulties of learning a highly technical sport in a region with scant resources. Despite these setbacks, my resolve was unshaken. I was drawn to the idea of pushing boundaries—not only personal but also geographical—and unlocking the untapped potential of my homeland.
The breakthrough came this season when, with the support of Allied Safety Equipment, I established the region’s first-ever ice climbing route. Inspired by a prior trek to the enchanting Hapatgand (Bear Valley) in Thajiwas, I revisited a particular frozen waterfall that had captured my imagination. I envisioned it as a site where dreams of ice climbing in Kashmir could take root.
The route, which I named Chiv Angrez, WI3 | 60m, a Kashmiri phrase translating to Are you a Foreigner? holds deep personal significance. In 2022, when I approached the Jammu and Kashmir Tourism Department seeking to rent ice climbing equipment, I was met with incredulity. Their dismissive response—Are you a foreigner that you will ice climb here?—stung deeply. The implication was that ice climbing was an activity reserved for outsiders and beyond the aspirations of a local. Rather than dissuading me, this encounter ignited a fierce determination to prove that such assumptions were baseless. Naming the route after this pivotal moment felt like reclaiming the narrative, transforming scepticism into a source of strength.
Accompanied by my steadfast friend Yasir, I embarked on the climb that would make history. The air was crisp, the frozen cascade gleaming under the winter sun. Excitement coursed through me, tempered by the challenge that lay ahead. After an eight-month hiatus from ice climbing, my body protested against the demands of the ascent. Nevertheless, I pressed on, establishing an anchor at the first ledge to catch my breath and recalibrate.
The second attempt brought renewed vigour. My hands gripped the ice axes firmly as I ascended the vertical expanse. The sound of rushing water accompanied me, a reminder of the impermanence of this icy marvel. As the climb steepened, my focus sharpened, each placement of an ice screw a deliberate act of survival and progress. After 60 gruelling metres, I reached the route’s summit and established a secure V-thread anchor for the descent. The exhilaration of that moment was unparalleled—a culmination of resilience, determination, and an unrelenting belief in the possibilities within Kashmir.
While Yasir and I led the climb, the achievement would not have been possible without the unwavering support of our friends—Saqib, Ali, Zubair, Akeel, and Numair. Their encouragement and camaraderie were instrumental, proving that the spirit of adventure thrives not only in solitary pursuits but also in the bonds forged along the way. Together, we turned a shared dream into reality, etching this historic moment into the annals of Kashmir’s adventure sports.
Opening Kashmir’s first ice climbing route is more than just a personal milestone; it is a statement of potential and a call to action. This achievement serves as an inspiration for aspiring climbers and a reminder of the region’s untapped possibilities. With concerted efforts to build infrastructure, provide training, and make equipment accessible, ice climbing could become a cornerstone of Kashmir’s adventure tourism. This sport, blending physical endurance with nature’s raw beauty, is uniquely positioned to showcase the valley’s splendour to the world while fostering local pride.
The story of Tuih Chiv Angrez is one of resilience, transformation, and hope. It is proof that with passion and persistence, even the most uncharted paths can lead to extraordinary destinations.
(The author is a mountaineer from Kashmir, a skilled climber, explorer, and instructor with a passion for developing the climbing community in his homeland.)
