Kashmir Climber Conquers Harmukh, Scripts New Chapter in Mountaineering History

   

SRINAGAR: In a major achievement for Jammu and Kashmir’s mountaineering community, local climber Waseem Hassan Rather has successfully completed the Harmukh Massif traverse, becoming one of the few mountaineers to summit all the principal peaks of the iconic mountain range.

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climber Waseem Hassan Rather
Climber Waseem Hassan Rather

Rather achieved the milestone after completing a week-long expedition from June 25 to July 1, 2026, during which he and his team climbed Station Peak, Northern Peak, Harmukh Main Summit and the Eastern Summit. The latest achievement, combined with his successful ascent of the Western Peak in 2024, marks the completion of all major climbing objectives of the Harmukh Massif.

The expedition was organised by HTT Adventures in collaboration with the All Jammu & Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation and was led by Rather.

The team began its journey from Kadura village on June 25, trekking through alpine meadows before setting up Base Camp in the Harmukh Massif. However, challenging weather conditions, including poor visibility and unstable terrain, delayed the initial climbing plans.

The climbers used the halt for acclimatisation, equipment checks, rope preparation, route assessment and safety planning. According to the expedition team, the decision to wait for improved conditions played a crucial role in ensuring a safe and successful climb.

After establishing an Advance Camp below Station Peak on June 27, the team successfully climbed Station Peak and crossed Liyaqat Ridge the next day. The expedition continued with the successful ascent of Northern Peak on June 29.

The final summit attempt was carried out on June 30, when Rather, along with high-altitude porters Liyaqat Ahmad and Tariq Ahmad Lone, climbed Harmukh Main Summit and Eastern Summit after setting up a Summit Camp at nearly 5,000 metres above sea level. The team returned safely to Base Camp the same night and concluded the expedition on July 1 after trekking back to Kadura village.

During the expedition, three members — Chandan Pal Singh, Yawar Aslam and Muraad Khursheed — decided not to proceed towards the higher summits after assessing their physical condition and the risks involved. The team said the decision reflected responsible mountaineering practices, where safety takes priority over reaching the summit.

Congratulating the climbers, Danish Dhaar, Managing Director of the All Jammu and Kashmir Mountaineering Foundation, termed the expedition a significant achievement for adventure sports in the region.

He appreciated the team for showing discipline, coordination and commitment to safety throughout the challenging expedition.

“The mountains always demand respect. This expedition reminded us that patience, teamwork and sound judgement are more important than reaching any summit,” Rather said after completing the climb.

“Every member made the right decisions according to the conditions, and that is what defines a successful expedition. Completing all the major peaks of the Harmukh Massif has been a long-term goal, and I am grateful to everyone who supported this journey,” he added.

The achievement is being seen as an important milestone in Jammu and Kashmir’s mountaineering history and highlights the increasing capabilities of local climbers in undertaking technical alpine expeditions.

Harmukh, among Kashmir’s most prominent mountains, has attracted climbers since the nineteenth century. The latest successful traverse adds another chapter to its mountaineering legacy and strengthens Kashmir’s reputation as an emerging destination for technical alpine climbing.

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