SRINAGAR: Four local mountaineers have successfully completed what they believe is the first recorded ascent of Kreplin Peak, climbing its 4,261-metre Northeast Face in a two-day expedition that involved steep terrain, loose rock, exposed sections and route-finding on an undocumented climbing line.
The climbing team comprised Saqib Ayub, Aazib Manzoor, Muzamil Ahmad Wani and Vakeel Yousuf, all aged between 25 and 30. The expedition was jointly led by Yousuf and Wani, with Furhan Bilal and Owais Ashraf Shah providing backup support.
The team reached the summit at around 1:30 pm on September 13, a day after beginning the expedition from Lalan Batkote in Pahalgam.
The expedition began on September 12, when the climbers departed from Lalan, a small hamlet in Batkote, at around 11:30 am. Located at approximately 2,000 metres above sea level, the village served as the starting point for their approach towards the peak.
Before setting out, the climbers researched old mountaineering records, books, Himalayan journals and other available documentation relating to Kreplin Peak and the surrounding area.
According to the team, “our research did not reveal any documented record of a previous ascent of Kreplin Peak or an established route on its Northeast Face.” The climbers therefore consider their ascent the first recorded summit of the peak.
The team travelled in alpine style, carrying approximately 25 to 30 kilograms of equipment per person. They covered nearly 10 kilometres on the approach, passing through Puhir Pajan before reaching Kamalnar Base Camp at around 3,200 metres at approximately 7 pm.
“The Alpine-style approach required us to rely heavily on teamwork while also maintaining individual independence during the ascent,” they said.
The team had initially planned to establish an advanced camp but abandoned the plan because of the lack of a reliable water source at the intended location.
Instead, they took shelter for the night in a nomadic mud house. They gathered wood from the surrounding area to keep warm against the cold and strong winds before preparing for the summit push.
The climbers began their ascent at around 5 am the following morning.
They approached Kreplin Peak through its Northeast Face, where they had no established climbing line or previously documented route to follow.
The ascent involved challenging terrain, including steep elevation gain, loose rock, exposed sections and complex route-finding. The climbers crossed at least two major massifs, repeatedly gaining between 100 and 150 metres before descending and climbing again towards the next section.
The Northeast Face also presented a significant rockfall risk, forcing the team to assess the terrain continuously while selecting a safe line.
At several points, the climbers went off route before finding their way towards the final ridge leading to the summit.
The team reached the 4,261-metre summit at approximately 1:30 pm on September 13.
The climbers said the expedition was also aimed at creating a detailed record of the approach, route, terrain and climbing conditions so that the Northeast Face and the line they followed could be documented for future mountaineers.
For the team, however, the ascent carried a significance beyond establishing a climbing record.
For Vakeel Yousuf, the climb fulfilled a childhood dream. As a young boy, he could see Kreplin Peak from his home and had long wanted to climb it.
Yousuf had previously discussed the peak with fellow mountaineer Muzamil Ahmad Wani, and the idea eventually became a shared goal.
According to Wani, the peak is visible from Anantnag, Awantipora and Pulwama. After years of looking at the mountain from below and wondering about a possible route, the successful ascent became the fulfilment of a long-held mountaineering ambition for the two climbers.
The climbers described the moment on the summit as emotional, saying the sense of tranquillity at the top was accompanied by happiness at having achieved a long-awaited goal.
The team had already summited several peaks before Kreplin, but said this expedition was particularly meaningful because of the personal connection they had developed with the mountain.
The ascent also forms part of the climbers’ wider effort to explore and document lesser-known peaks in the region.
The mountaineers hope that documenting such routes will encourage more local climbers to explore the mountains around them and contribute to the growth of mountaineering, trekking and outdoor adventure in the region.
Wani also spoke about the contribution of women to mountaineering, praising Nahida Manzoor, who became the first woman from the Kashmir Valley to climb Mount Everest.
He encouraged young people to take up outdoor activities and mountaineering, saying such opportunities can help people remain physically active, connect with nature and appreciate its beauty.
