Dr Nisar Farhad details his bike riding to the top passes surrounding Kashmir and Ladakh
Learning to ride a bike over mountain passes proved a transformative journey in my life. Initially, fear gave way to confidence, unlocking doors to incredible adventures and experiences. These mountain passes present themselves as ladder-like challenges, enticing riders upwards stage by stage.
For centuries, their breathtaking views, fresh air, and sense of freedom have inspired writers, poets, and filmmakers. It is about navigating uncertainties with courage and determination. The phrase ‘feel the fear and do it anyway’ resonated deeply, giving me the confidence to embrace fear and embark on this new adventure. This mantra also holds in our professional lives – acknowledging fears without letting them dictate our actions.
One of the most unexpected and delightful aspects of bike riding was the relationships forged along the way. A shared passion brought together a diverse group, fostering bonds that transcended age, profession, distance, and background. Despite our differences, we connected on the road, united by the freedom and thrill of riding.
Sometimes, stepping out of our comfort zones and engaging with diverse groups can lead to surprising and fulfilling relationships. Bike riding taught me the value of being open to unexpected connections and embracing diversity.
Accept the challenges posed by mountain passes and conquer them – when you reach the summit and stand atop your conquered mountain pass, the panoramic view of the landscape, as far as the eye can see, is the greatest reward from Mother Nature.
In the geographically diverse states of Jammu and Kashmir (J&K) and Ladakh, breathtaking mountain passes offer thrilling adventures amidst stunning landscapes. These passes are part of Kashmir folklore as for centuries the people have been using them to communicate, interact and relate. Before they were tamed for easy access in the nineteenth century, these passes were the main barriers and windows at the same time. Once, they were dominated by people who would guard against infiltration and at another point in time, these became the posts where customs and taxes were collected. Traders had lifelong relationships with these passes so did the men who would run the manual communication links before the telegraph and post department took over.
Some of the beautiful motorable mountain passes I have explored on my two-wheeler include:
Zamindar Gali (Z Gali): At an altitude of 10334 feet, Zamindar Gali, also known as Z-Gali, connects the remote Machil belt with mainland Kupwara in North Kashmir. From here, one can behold the majestic Nanga Parbat peak of the greater Himalayas. The surrounding area, known as Koker Seena (meaning chicken breast) by locals, is flat and features slopes thickly populated by Fir and Pine trees. The Z-Gali top offers breathtaking views of the Shams Bari Mountain range.
Only 45 km from main Kupwara town, the pass is almost 200 km from Srinagar. It is the gateway to Machil, located barely 15 km from the top of the pass. A tightly guarded pass for security reasons, the weather remains chilly in summer, with temperatures ranging from 7 to 18 degrees Celsius. During winters, it is intensely cold, with temperatures plummeting to as low as -25 degrees Celsius. On average, snow levels reach about 8 feet, but can go up to 15 feet during severe winters. The extreme cold is usually accompanied by high-velocity winds.
Pharkian Gali: This motorable mountain pass, at an altitude of 9840 feet, connects Kashmir with the Karen belt of Kupwara. The pass provides sweeping views of the surrounding Himalayan ranges and the Karen Valley. Every bend in the trail is adorned with stunning wildflowers, thick woodlands, and mesmerising views. The stunning vistas can be experienced along the banks of the Kishanganga, and on the other side of the river, the Neelam Valley boasts enchanting and majestic beauty.
Sadhna Top: Deep within the Tangdhar Karnah Valley lies Sadhna Top, a picturesque mountain pass elevated at 10,000-11,000 feet. This natural wonder serves as the sole connection between the people of Karnah tehsil in Kupwara and the rest of Jammu and Kashmir. Nestled in the vast Shams Bari Mountain range, Sadhna Top is steeped in mythological legend, with tales of blind and deaf fairies.
Originally known as Nastachun, meaning “cut nose,” the pass was renamed in honour of Bollywood actor Sadhna Shivdasani, who visited the area after the 1965 war and interacted with soldiers. While the views from the top are nothing short of spectacular, they are tempered by the sorrow of locals who have lost loved ones to the dangers of this pass. As Suman Lone of Tangdhar poignantly notes, “Nature can be both beautiful and cruel, and Sadhna Top is a testament to that duality.” The road concludes at Teetwal, the last point on this side of Kashmir.
Razdan Pass: At an altitude of 11672ft, Razdan Pass stands as a high mountain pass on the Srinagar-Gurez Road, 72 km from Srinagar and 16 km from Bandipora. The road across the pass connects Gurez with the rest of Kashmir, offering a journey through rugged terrain and scenic beauty.
The breathtaking views make it a popular destination among tourists and adventure seekers, promising an exhilarating experience. A few kilometres before the pass lies the Peer Baba Shrine, a necessary visit site that offers spiritual solace and a 360-degree view of the surrounding mountains.
This pass remained historically important because it was used by the Begaar caravans to take rations to the soldiers posted in Gilgit. This pass would eventually take the people to Burzil pass, almost 35 km from Gurez which would connect Srinagar with Gilgit. Like other passes, this access is also hugely guarded for obvious security reasons. Off late, however, hundreds of visitors cross the pass to enjoy the pristine beauty of Gurez, hitherto a virgin location.
Sinthan Pass: At an altitude of 12500ft, Sinthan Pass connects Anantnag with Kishtwar, its snow-capped peaks a remarkable sight for most of the year. Located on the Anantnag-Kokernag-Kishtwar section of NH 244, this majestic pass is 48 km from Kokernag.
With no local population, Sinthan Top is a temporary home to shepherds from nearby Kokernag and Daksum, as well as tourists and those in the tourism industry, who stay overnight in tents. The pass is renowned for its breathtaking beauty and tourist attractions, rapidly emerging as a top destination in the Chenab Valley. The 37 km uphill drive from Daksum is an adventure, winding through treacherous terrain. As a hub for mountaineering, trekking, and skiing, Sinthan Top is a paradise for thrill-seekers.
The pass, over the years, has emerged as a base camp for various trekking to high-altitude lakes. The easy access has made this ecologically fragile destination a favourite but the spot requires upkeep.
Pir Panjal Pass: The Pir Panjal Pass, also known as Peer Ki Gali, is a stunning mountain pass situated in the Pir Panjal range, connecting Kashmir to the Rajouri and Poonch districts of Jammu via the Mughal Road. At an altitude of 11450ft, it stands as the highest point on the Mughal Road, southwest of Kashmir.
Historian Mohibbul Hasan notes that the Pir Panjal Pass was a crucial entry point into Kashmir, significantly influencing its history. Following his conquest of the region, Emperor Akbar transformed the route into an ‘Imperial Road’, stretching from Lahore to Kashmir, now known as the ‘Mughal Road‘.
Local tradition associates Saint Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani with Peer Ki Gali, where a Pir named Sheikh Ahmed Karim is said to have lived and meditated during Emperor Jahangir’s reign. According to legend, Karim converted to Islam from Hinduism and revered the Peer Ki Gali as a sacred site, urging all passersby to treat it with reverence. A shrine marks the spot where the Pir meditated, housing a stone believed by some to bear his handprint.
Banihal Pass: Tucked away in the Pir Panjal Range in India, the Banihal Pass stands at a maximum elevation of 2832 metres, serving as a vital connector between Kashmir and Jammu. The name Banihal itself, derived from the Kashmiri language, translates to “blizzard“, a testament to the region’s turbulent weather patterns.
Until 1956, the road from Jammu to Srinagar traversed this pass, before the Jawahar Tunnel was constructed beneath it. As one navigates the Banihal Pass, a striking transformation in the landscape and mountains becomes apparent. The natural beauty of Kashmir unfolds through the erstwhile Banihal Cart Road, offering a glimpse into the region’s diverse topography.
The Zaban Glacier, a renowned hill station, is nestled in the Sanglaab Valley, close to the Banihal Pass. En route from Banihal to Udhampur lies the picturesque hill station and tourist destination, Patnitop, perched at an altitude of 6,640 feet. The Chenab River flows nearby, adding to the allure of this scenic spot.
Neel Top: This motorable scenic spot is located at a distance of about 55 km from Ramban and 25 km from Banihal town via Chamalwas village, at an altitude of nearly 6561 ft. Another road to Neel Top is from Magarkote. The overhead floating clouds, bright sunshine, cold breeze that touches soft skin, and sometimes fog and terrifying dark clouds shroud in such a way that it becomes difficult to move on. One can feel all these things at Neel top. It has a tremendous tourist potential that needs to be explored fully to boost tourism in this beautiful area of Jammu and Kashmir.
Zoji La Pass: Perched at a dizzying elevation of 11575 feet, the Zoji La Pass is a formidable mountain pass in the Himalayas, bridging Kashmir and Ladakh. This treacherous terrain has seen many conflicts, the most recent being the Indo-Pakistan War of 1947-48 and the 1999 Kargil War.
The pass is notorious for its dirt trail road, replete with hairpin bends, yet offers breathtaking views that evoke a myriad of emotions. This road is seen as one of the most dangerous roads on earth. Adventure-seekers, however, find themselves drawn toZoji La Pass, one of the most challenging passes in Ladakh. The experience is exhilarating, with sights that defy description. As one navigates the pass, the valley unfurls below, crisscrossed by streams, while mountains tower above, their peaks shrouded in dense clouds, and slopes patched with verdant greenery.
Namikala Pass: The Namikala Pass, aptly referred to as the ‘pillar of the sky’, stands tall at an altitude of 12198 feet, connecting the Srinagar-Leh highway through the Zanskar range. As one traverses this pass, en route to the picturesque valley of Mulbek, they are treated to panoramic views of the revered rock carvings of Maitreya Buddha and a nearby Gompa. Serving as the gateway to the Kargil region, Namikala Pass is one of the most prominent passes in Ladakh, boasting extensive barren lands, snow-clad peaks, and superb vistas that make the journey truly worthwhile.
Khardung La Pass: The Khardung La Pass, touted by the Border Road Organization (BRO) as the highest motorable pass in the world, stands at a dizzying altitude of 18379 feet, serving as the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra valleys.
Located on the Ladakh range, approximately 40 km from Leh town, this pass is also known as the ‘Pass of Lower Castle’. The stunning views of the surrounding valleys are a major draw for adventure seekers, with many motorbike riders from around the world flocking to Khardung La to set personal records for riding above 18000 feet. This oxygen-deplete pass is very famous among Western adventurers.
Captivating Sights
Usually, the view from the top of a mountain pass is a revelatory experience. It is as if the world has unfolded before your eyes, presenting a vastly different landscape from the one visible from the ground. The scale and magnitude of what lies before you are awe-inspiring. With the right mindset, vision, persistence, and patience, the possibilities seem endless – not just for personal achievement, but also for making a meaningful impact on others. This, I believe, is where true success lies.
Adopting a ‘view from the top’ mindset can be transformative. By expanding your thinking and focusing on your purpose and vision, you can live more fully in every moment. Achieving your goals can bring a sense of accomplishment and amplify your influence on yourself and others.
In my own life, I have been fortunate enough to have achieved my goals thus far, despite encountering numerous hurdles and challenges along the way. I am grateful for the memorable moments I have created, moments that truly matter to me.
The mountains have taught me a valuable lesson: no matter how intense the storm, it will pass, and the sunshine will return. This wisdom has instilled in me the importance of faith and calm in the face of adversity. When things don’t go as expected, it’s essential to remain steadfast, for eventually, the situation will improve, and progress will be possible.
(The author is an educator currently serving as a Lecturer in Chemistry with the School Education Department in Jammu and Kashmir. Beyond the classroom, the author is an avid adventurer and travel enthusiast.)
