Famous in Kashmir’s history as the meadow of gold, Sonamarg has influenced authors, filmmakers, trekkers, strategic experts and water rafters alike. It continues to retain the charm as it offers no other spot in Kashmir can claim, writes Umaima Reshi
Huddled within Kashmir’s appealing landscapes, Sonamarg is a quaint hill station, 80 km northeast of Srinagar. Settled at an elevation of approximately 2730 metres above sea level, this tourist spot reverberates with the roaring of the River Sindh and Nilagrad on the banks of which it lives. Sonamarg is a retreat for travellers seeking the embrace of snow-covered fields, majestic glaciers, and poised lakes that cast a subtle spell on the admirers.
Sonamarg, which means ‘meadow of gold’, has as its setting, snowy mountains against a bright blue sky. This breathtaking spot got its name as the sun’s rays illuminated its snowy meadows, giving its surroundings a golden touch. It is one of the most written-about spots in Kashmir tourism because it has been the gateway to Ladakh, a vital spot from the strategic point of view, trade and travel especially because it connected Kashmir with the Silk Route. It has remained a base camp for treks to Vishansar, Krishansar, Gangabal, and Gadsar.
The climate of Sonamarg is rejuvenating, though it experiences frequent but light rainfall. Due to its high altitude and mountainous terrain, Sonamarg has a rare humid continental climate with notable precipitation levels.
The Tourism
The surrounding great Himalayan glaciers heighten the glamour of Sonamarg – Kolhoi, Thajwas and Machoi Glaciers, famous locally as Three Sisters. Overlooking this charming hill town are towering peaks such as Kolhoi Peak, Amarnath Peak, Machoi Peak, and Sirbal Peak, making Sonamarg the most sought-after destination for adventure sports enthusiasts. Glaciers and peaks apart, Sonamarg serves as the doorway to Kashmir’s great high-altitude lakes further through the route of Nichnai Pass – Gangabal, Vishansar, Gadsar, Satsar, and Krishnasar. The valley is divided by the Thajiwas range, an ideal camping site offering breathtaking views.
During winter, Sonamarg modifies into a snow-clad wonderland, creating a calm ambience. However, approachability becomes a challenge as the National Highway 1D connecting it to other places shuts down due to heavy snowfall and avalanches. It remains buried under snow for most of the winter and people living in various habitations migrate to lower areas for better accessibility. Now two tunnels are trying to make it an all-weather destination by making Ladakh accessible round the clock.
Sonamarg has no enduring habitation and becomes unreachable during the heavy winter season. According to the 2011 Census, Sonamarg had a seasonal population of 392 people, apart from visitors and those employed there.
A Vast Stretch
Amid huge peaks and shades, the Sonamarg is located in a vast gorge on a river bank and the valley stretches up to Baltal where the Zoji La Pass is approached. Initially, there were only a few constructions on the right side of the highway owing to the vast swathes of land available. However, now too many constructions have come up on both the banks and the spot looks like a concrete congestion.
Over the years, the modest market has expanded. Now there are showrooms and brands around. Initially, the market was known for its traditional handicrafts. Now, almost everything is around and abundant. The shop line has gone too deep into the spot following the main highway.
River Rafting
Apart from watching the cold and hot weather of an unpredictable spot, Sonamarg is very popular for white water rafting. Thanks to the roar of the Sindh and the constant speed with which it flows down towards Ganderbal, it offers a long stretch for rafting.
White-water rafting has been attracting tourists for a long time now. The adventure begins with a lengthy rafting journey from Baltal to Shutkari Bridge. Exploring this bridge is one of the most intriguing and exciting ways to experience Sonamarg. Off late, the spot has hosted various international rafting tournaments involving private operators and the Tourism Department Kashmir.
Hung Park is one of the best stopover sites on the way to Sonamarg. Located 6.8 km from Sonamarg on the Srinagar-Leh route, the park was established by the Forest Department to promote ecotourism in the area. Offering spectacular views, Hung Park is a perfect picnic destination that features a play area for kids as well.
Interesting Surroundings
Sonamarg is surrounded by several alluring villages that add to its beauty. These hamlets are known for their serene landscapes, traditional lifestyle, and hospitable people.
Nilgrar, also known as Nilgrath, is a small quaint village known for its towering peaks, lush green meadows and pristine streams. Barely 4km from the stir of Sonamarg, yet somehow untouched by the trappings of modernity. It is the last village on the Kashmir route to Ladakh.
Gagangir, situated on the banks of the Sindh River, is a picturesque village with breathtaking landscapes. The village is a popular stopover for travellers heading to Sonamarg.
Other major villages include Kullan, Gund and Rezan famous for their beautiful orchards and scenic views, natural beauty and serene environment. These villages contribute to the allure of Sonamarg, making it a must-visit destination for travellers.
Kangan, the major town ahead of Sonamarg, is home to Baba Nagri, where the shrine of Baba Jee Sahib Larwi (RA) is located. It is the most revered by the Gujjars and Bakerwals of Jammu and Kashmir. It falls in the Wangat belt which is located on the picturesque hills overlooking the town.
Icing on the Cake
A section of the tourists take horses and go to the foot of the Thajiwas Glacier, barely 3 km from Sonamarg. It is an exquisite wonder at an elevation of 3000 metres above sea level, remaining snow-covered throughout the year.
Though the glacier is an ideal spot for trekking and camping, most of the tourists spend time on the fragile glacier to experience the snow. It has been witnessing incidents involving the collapsing of the glacier in which some deaths took place.
On the way to the glacier, tourists marvel at the sight of a silvery, frozen lake surrounded by lush greenery. The journey also offers glimpses of the Gujjar tribes, who have set up camps in the area to earn their livelihood. The landscape is adorned with alpine meadows and numerous waterfalls, enhancing the glacier’s appeal.
Zoji-La Pass
Sonamarg is the last major town before the road takes off for Ladakh to crossover the 11575 ft Zoji La that divides the arid desert from Kashmir valley. Zoji La is renowned as one of the world’s most reckless mountain routes. Known as the “mountain pass of blizzards,” it remains impassable during winter due to heavy snowfall and avalanches. Given its altitude and the destinations it connects, Zoji La Pass offers exceptionally beautiful vistas and landscapes. Certain sections of the pass, particularly, can pose a challenging ride; hence one should traverse it only with an experienced driver accustomed to such steep and winding roads.
Zero Point is a breathtaking destination, situated at the end of the Zojila Pass on the Srinagar-Leh highway. Zero Point is located 30-35 kilometres from Sonamarg. The journey is hilly, bumpy, and narrow. Commonly known as the Gateway to Ladakh, it is a place where nature’s beauty is on full display, encircled by snow-covered mountains and valleys. This spot is renowned for its stunning landscapes and adventurous roads. Located near the Indo-China border, it is a unique attraction that captivates travellers.
Amarnath Base Camp
The road to Zoji La overlooks the Amarnath Yatra base camp at Baltal. Historically the Hindu devotees would go to the cave shrine through a long 40 km Pahalgam-Chandanwari route. Since 1996, this shorter 12 km trek is also operational.
For this yearly yatra, Baltal is the main ever centre of activity. Rising at an altitude of 2743 meters and acclaimed for its scenic views, Baltal is located 14 km from Amarnath. During the yatra period, Baltal is a hyperactive spot where a tented town emerges with too many people around. There are ambulances, doctors, tented hospitals and a tented radio station operational during these days.
Not far away from the camp operates a helicopter service that flies pilgrims to the cave shrine and gets them back. All these arrangements are overseen by the Shri Amarnath Shrine Board (SASB). For pilgrims wishing to go to the cave on horses or on a sort of palanquins, hundreds of resident people are working.
The Pahalgam route, a bit longer, is generally preferred by a section of the devotees. It typically takes 3-5 days. Given the shortest distance from Baltal, most of the pilgrims take this route for the pilgrimage. This keeps Sonamarg busy during the yatra period.
A Film Set
Sonamarg’s natural beauty has inspired many renowned authors and has been featured in several popular novels as well. The Sonamarg Chronicles by Ruskin Bond, famous for his enchanting tales, is a series of stories, which flamboyantly reflect the charm and serenity of this place. Man Booker Prize winner Aravind Adiga’s novel The White Tiger also showcases the beauty of enchanting Sonamarg. In his hunt for the elusive animal, The Snow Leopard, Peter Matthiessen, an American author and naturalist has extensively offered vivid descriptions of the place. Most recently, investigative journalists Adrian Levy and Catherine Scott-Clark, while tackling the 1995 hostage crisis involving shadowy al-Faran have talked at length about Sonamarg in their acclaimed The Meadow.
Though the oldest Sonamarg book is acclaimed by mountaineer, CWF Noyce who published A Climber’s Guide to Sonamarg in 1945, there has not been a single major travelogue on Kashmir that does not discuss Sonamarg, its charms and beauties.
Over the centuries, a lot of things have happened in Sonamarg. One missing British lady led to a special BBC documentary recently.
Given the fascinating sets that Sonamarg offers, Bollywood could not remain aloof. In the last 30 years, sequences of many films were shot there. These include Mani Ratnam’s Roja, Aditya Roy Kapur’s Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani, Salman Khan’s Bajrangi Bhaijaan, Shahrukh Khan’s Veer Zara and Jab Tak Hai Jaan. In the last three years, Sonamarg has been playing host to several web series as well.
