by Shyma Rauf
A scenic Budgam valley steeped in Habba Khatoon’s legend now battles a hydropower project and reckless off-roading, damaging its meadows
Forty kilometres south-west of Srinagar lies the picturesque village of Brenwar. Located deep inside in district Budgam, the valley is surrounded by snow-capped Pir Panjal mountains, the sound of water streams fills the air, and its Haijin meadow attracts visitors from across the country.
Shepherds pass through these meadows, their cattle grazing on the lush greens of the area. Known as the “crown jewel” of the region, Haijin meadow lies roughly three kilometres from Yusmarg and seven to eight kilometres from Doodhpathri. Often referred to as the dead-end village of Budgam, Brenwar is also known for the fine quality of its walnuts.
Its Sang-e-Sufaid trees and Doodh Ganga stream, originating from the Pir Panjal range, is a major attraction. Streams beginning in the Ashtar valley flow down through Brenwar toward Chadoora.
Beyond its role as a tourist destination, the village holds deep historical and cultural significance. It once served as a strategic crossroad for ancient travellers and traders. Once, it was on the trek from Kashmir to Poonch.
Legend holds that Habba Khatoon, the Nightingale of Kashmir, drew inspiration from Brenwar’s landscape, wandering through its meadows, writing poetry after her separation from King Yusuf Shah Chak, Kashmir’s last independent ruler. The meadows that once embraced a heartbroken Habba Khatoon continue to offer solace to those seeking a breather today.
Many visit the village for hiking and camping, drawn by its lush green landscape and pine forests, which serve as a peaceful getaway for both visitors and residents.
Though less discovered than mainstream destinations like Pahalgam and Gulmarg, Brenwar has not been spared from modern pressures; a contentious hydropower plant and unchecked off-roading have both left their mark on its meadows.
Sanctioned in February 2009, the 7.5 MW Brenwar Small Hydropower Project has cut through the meadows to lay pipelines. A 2024 report revealed that meadows were dug up for pipeline construction and large-scale deforestation accompanied the project. While engineers maintain the project was planned with environmental care in mind, conservationists argue it has caused environmental ruin through the diversion of the Doodh Ganga and the felling of hundreds of trees.
Beyond the power project, Brenwar’s scenic meadows have also fallen prey to visitors’ search for thrills. Over the past two years, multiple videos by YouTubers have shown off-roading in the pristine meadows, damaging nature’s tapestry. One such YouTuber, Imad-ur-Rehman, landed in legal trouble over an October 7, 2025 video, with a case registered against him under the Indian Forest Act. Following the incident, off-roading trails in the area were closed.
Once regarded as a hidden treasure, Brenwar’s meadows have faced exploitation from multiple directions, their scenic beauty scarred by 4×4 tyre marks, even as the hydropower project continues to affect both landscape and livelihoods, according to conservationists. Social activist Raja Muzaffar Bhat has called the power project a “clear violation of the Forest Rights Act 2006.” In a write up, he wrote, “Locals of Branwar and adjoining villages say that it seems that hundreds and thousands of forest trees (Kail, Fir, Deodar) were axed to help this company. On the other hand, the local people who actually own these forests under the Forest Rights Act 2006 got nothing in return.”
Despite these challenges, Brenwar continues to offer pristine scenery, unending meadows, pine forests and streams, a taste of heaven for all who visit, and a calm space to wind down. One of Kashmir’s many hidden treasures, Brenwar welcomes all and embraces them as its own.
